LULA IN FRANCE
9,000 km from cape town, za.
44.8538° n, 0.4834° e
With so many amazing local places on our bucket list, traveling internationally wasn’t really a huge consideration. Afterall, we have leopards to photograph and mountain passes to traverse. The wilderness bug bites pretty hard, and once you’ve been nibbled, it’s hard to say goodbye to African soil, even for a couple of weeks in the southwest of France in peak summer. But that’s exactly what I did when my mom called to say my dogs (our family dogs) were without a babysitter for a smidge while she waited in Cape Town on a renewed French visa.
Growing up in the south of England, my family and I would visit France regularly for long weekends and school holidays and my mom had been dreaming of living there for years. And why not? The Dordogne Valley is reminiscent of Francshoek and Cape Town, sprinkled with Hampshire (UK) fields of cows and postcard perfect sunflowers. It’s all the things she’s loved in all the places she’s loved being, but with a European postcode, exceptionally fast online shopping delivery and a chance to really learn a new language without just competing to remain at the top of the Duolingo Diamond League. Or perhaps those would just be my reasons to relocate to France!
The catch for my trip to France was the timing, in that, there really wasn’t any. Simply, there was an unforeseen overlap with visas where no one was home with Bentley, Bells & Floyd, our 80kg Newfoundlands who had arrived in France months before. Thankfully, being British, I don’t need a tourist visa to visit Europe, but for Grant, we couldn’t organise his one in time. This was now a solo trip to a country 8,950km from home, one that would end up taking 40 hours door to door after delays, running for flights, seemingly endless waiting in Paris airport, planes, trains and driving on the ‘wrong’ side of the road.
The Dordogne Valley is home to some of the country’s most picture-perfect countryside, hill-top villages, medieval castles, mysterious caves, delicious food and now too, three big bear dogs. The region also boasts 10 of France’s Plus Beaux Villages and goodness, vineyards galore, so even if you’re traveling solo, wandering aimlessly through cobblestone streets or wine-tasting at the local wine farm is a perfect way to spend an entire afternoon.
Eymet was founded 1270 by Alphonse of Poitiers, like many of the French bastide towns, as part of a defensive strategy against the English. The site on which Eymet was built had already previously been occupied during Roman times and even in the prehistoric era. Despite being built to keep the English away, this stunning town in the Dordogne department in Nouvelle-Aquitaine in southwestern France is now home to around 10% English speaking immigrants.
Amongst the boulangeries, antiquaires et cafes, you’ll also find English tea shops and establishments selling Aunt Bessie’s Yorkshire Puddings and Waggon Wheels. In fact, though apparently the locals expressed that it was a tad embarrassing, Eymet featured in a TV show called ‘Little England’ showcasing expats in their new French lives. However, although I was slightly relieved to be understood as I hopelessly interjected English into my broken French sentences (though I am working on it), in my opinion, it felt just as French as every other beautiful French town, with medieval homes, narrow streets, historical monuments and of course, it’s iconic church with its ornate spires.
It’s also the closest little town to my mom’s new home, so off I’d go, every second day or so to buy fresh pears, feta in olive oil, smoked bacon and baguettes, which I’d share with Bellsie at lunch time. On Tuesday evenings and Sunday mornings, the town centre is transformed into a market, with stalls selling everything from fresh fruit and sun-hats to patterned tunic dresses and small antiques. With its recycled-plastic-to-flowers bunting, the square is so very pretty, with a vibrant atmosphere, where locals and tourists can pick up fresh flowers, olives and have a glass of wine outside the many restaurants and bars.
LULA IN FRANCE
12,220 km from cape town, za.
44.8538° n, 0.4834° e
With so many amazing local places on our bucket list, traveling internationally wasn’t really a huge consideration. Afterall, we have leopards to photograph and mountain passes to traverse. The wilderness bug bites pretty hard, and once you’ve been nibbled, it’s hard to say goodbye to African soil, even for a couple of weeks in the southwest of France in peak summer. But that’s exactly what I did when my mom called to say my dogs (our family dogs) were without a babysitter for a smidge while she waited in Cape Town on a renewed French visa.
Growing up in the south of England, my family and I would visit France regularly for long weekends and school holidays and my mom had been dreaming of living there for years. And why not? The Dordogne Valley is reminiscent of Franschoek and Cape Town, sprinkled with Hampshire (UK) fields of cows and postcard perfect sunflowers. It’s all the things she’s loved in all the places she’s loved being, but with a European postcode, exceptionally fast online shopping delivery and a chance to really learn a new language without just competing to remain at the top of the Duolingo Diamond League. Or perhaps those would just be my reasons to relocate to France!
The catch for my trip to France was the timing, in that, there really wasn’t any. Simply, there was an unforeseen overlap with visas where no one was home with Bentley, Bells & Floyd, our 80kg Newfoundlands who had arrived in France months before. Thankfully, being British, I don’t need a tourist visa to visit Europe, but for Grant, we couldn’t organise his one in time. This was now a solo trip to a country 8,950km from home, one that would end up taking 40 hours door to door after delays, running for flights, seemingly endless waiting in Paris airport, planes, trains and driving on the ‘wrong’ side of the road.
The Dordogne Valley is home to some of the country’s most picture-perfect countryside, hill-top villages, medieval castles, mysterious caves, delicious food and now too, three big bear dogs. The region also boasts 10 of France’s Plus Beaux Villages and goodness, vineyards galore, so even if you’re traveling solo, wandering aimlessly through cobblestone streets or wine-tasting at the local wine farm is a perfect way to spend an entire afternoon.
Eymet was founded 1270 by Alphonse of Poitiers, like many of the French bastide towns, as part of a defensive strategy against the English. The site on which Eymet was built had already previously been occupied during Roman times and even in the prehistoric era. Despite being built to keep the English away, this stunning town in the Dordogne department in Nouvelle-Aquitaine in southwestern France is now home to around 10% English speaking immigrants.
Amongst the boulangeries, antiquaires et cafes, you’ll also find English tea shops and establishments selling Aunt Bessie’s Yorkshire Puddings and Waggon Wheels. In fact, though apparently the locals expressed that it was a tad embarrassing, Eymet featured in a TV show called ‘Little England’ showcasing expats in their new French lives. However, although I was slightly relieved to be understood as I hopelessly interjected English into my broken French sentences (though I am working on it), in my opinion, it felt just as French as every other beautiful French town, with medieval homes, narrow streets, historical monuments and of course, it’s iconic church with its ornate spires.
It’s also the closest little town to my mom’s new home, so off I’d go, every second day or so to buy fresh pears, feta in olive oil, smoked bacon and baguettes, which I’d share with Bellsie at lunch time. On Tuesday evenings and Sunday mornings, the town centre is transformed into a market, with stalls selling everything from fresh fruit and sun-hats to patterned tunic dresses and small antiques. With its recycled-plastic-to-flowers bunting, the square is so very pretty, with a vibrant atmosphere, where locals and tourists can pick up fresh flowers, olives and have a glass of wine outside the many restaurants and bars.
le chateau de bridoire
One afternoon, my mom, having arrived just after her visa did, and I took Bellsie for a stroll around The Chateau de Bridoire, a 12th century castle in Ribagnac near to Bergerac, that we happened to stumble upon while exploring the roads around the area. The castle has been restored to its former glory after many years of neglect and features rooms decorated in the styles of previous centuries, taxidermy boars and deer, a model horse and a knight’s armour. The Chateau de Bridoire has had a chequered history, including being owned by ten different families. They say that a future king of France once dined there. And the castle was also the site of many battles including battles between Catholics and Protestants and between French and English.
Aside from all the small people hugging Bells (“Elle est vraiment douce!”), kids and big kids can also enjoy the hundreds of digital-free games they’ve installed in the castle grounds, ranging from giant chess to grass-skiing and archery making it a wonderful place to spend some time.
elderflowers
Elderflowers, which we found growing next to many roads, also make the most delicious drink. Although it’s been consumed since Roman times, this was completely new to me and I loved it! A little like litchi, these flowers, once steeped in a sugar-concentrated solution, have a truly delicious flavour.
I did a spot of research and read that in 400 BCE, Hippocrates referred to the elder tree as his “medicine chest.” Other healers, including Theophrastus, Dioscorides and Galen, regarded the elder as one of nature’s greatest healing plants, helping to overcome the symptoms of flu, coughs and even chest infections like bronchitis.
Considered the number one antiviral herb in the world, elderberries (the fruit) and elderflowers are packed with antioxidants and flavonoids that combat viruses. They also help reduce fine lines and the appearance of wrinkles, and the richness of antioxidants encourages the growth of new cells and makes the skin appear younger too, if you happen to have it available in your skincare.
le chateau de bridoire
One afternoon, my mom, having arrived just after her visa did, and I took Bellsie for a stroll around The Chateau de Bridoire, a 12th century castle in Ribagnac near to Bergerac, that we happened to stumble upon while exploring the roads around the area. The castle has been restored to its former glory after many years of neglect and features rooms decorated in the styles of previous centuries, taxidermy boars and deer, a model horse and a knight’s armour. The Chateau de Bridoire has had a chequered history, including being owned by ten different families. They say that a future king of France once dined there. And the castle was also the site of many battles including battles between Catholics and Protestants and between French and English.
Aside from all the small people hugging Bells (“Elle est vraiment douce!”), kids and big kids can also enjoy the hundreds of digital-free games they’ve installed in the castle grounds, ranging from giant chess to grass-skiing and archery making it a wonderful place to spend some time.
elderflowers
Elderflowers, which we found growing next to many roads, also make the most delicious drink. Although it’s been consumed since Roman times, this was completely new to me and I loved it! A little like litchi, these flowers, once steeped in a sugar-concentrated solution, have a truly delicious flavour.
I did a spot of research and read that in 400 BCE, Hippocrates referred to the elder tree as his “medicine chest.” Other healers, including Theophrastus, Dioscorides and Galen, regarded the elder as one of nature’s greatest healing plants, helping to overcome the symptoms of flu, coughs and even chest infections like bronchitis.
Considered the number one antiviral herb in the world, elderberries (the fruit) and elderflowers are packed with antioxidants and flavonoids that combat viruses. They also help reduce fine lines and the appearance of wrinkles, and the richness of antioxidants encourages the growth of new cells and makes the skin appear younger too, if you happen to have it available in your skincare.
what i learned
- It doesn’t get dark early in summer. Coming from living a bush life, where we rise early and go to bed early, suddenly staying up until midnight to spend an hour or so watching rubbish on the TV in the dark before bed was an adjustment. I was still worrying about spending too much time outside in the direct sun at 8pm in case I burned.
- Mosquitoes are rife! I got munched a lot before I finally slogged off to the Carrefour to buy repellents and plugs.
- How to put diesel in the car. This sounds silly, but as a South African, I’ve never had to pump my own petrol. I ended up having to ask another customer what to do, but hey, in the end, I got there! Small victories still count.
- My high school French is slightly better than I thought, and everyone I chatted to was kind and patient with me as I tried my best not to totally butcher their lyrical language. Merci beaucoup pour votre patience! It was lovely to engage in the French culture and explore a different side of myself.
- Fields of sunflowers will make you happy. It doesn’t matter what kind of day you’re having, driving anywhere in the region will bring a smile to your face.
my trip
- I traveled from Port Elizabeth to Johannesburg to Paris, and then from Paris to Bordeaux. My sister and her husband collected me from the airport and we drove to my mom’s new home in the country. Unfortunately, I experienced huge delays on the way there, so I only had a day with my sister before they left for Cape Town.
- I stayed at my mom’s home with the pups, only really venturing out to get supplies and take a couple of photos. Because my family was moving, there were thousands (or so it seemed) boxes to unpack, I had plenty of work to do, and the pool was very inviting, especially as for the majority of the time, it was 30 degrees plus.
- My mom doesn’t have any close neighbours, so I wasted many summer dresses without an audience, unless you count the newfies, of course, which I do. I do.
- When my mom arrived, we hung out, did some shopping, visited IKEA and le chateau, and rearranged all the big pieces of furniture!
- On the way back, I took a train from Bergerac to Bordeaux, which was actually lovely. Next time, I think I’ll take the train to Paris too.
what i learned
- It doesn’t get dark early in summer. Coming from living a bush life, where we rise early and go to bed early, suddenly staying up until midnight to spend an hour or so watching rubbish on the TV in the dark before bed was an adjustment. I was still worrying about spending too much time outside in the direct sun at 8pm in case I burned.
- Mosquitoes are rife! I got munched a lot before I finally slogged off to the Carrefour to buy repellents and plugs.
- How to put diesel in the car. This sounds silly, but as a South African, I’ve never had to pump my own petrol. I ended up having to ask another customer what to do, but hey, in the end, I got there! Small victories still count.
- My high school French is slightly better than I thought, and everyone I chatted to was kind and patient with me as I tried my best not to totally butcher their lyrical language. Merci beaucoup pour votre patience! It was lovely to engage in the French culture and explore a different side of myself.
- Fields of sunflowers will make you happy. It doesn’t matter what kind of day you’re having, driving anywhere in the region will bring a smile to your face.
-
my trip
- I traveled from Port Elizabeth to Johannesburg to Paris, and then from Paris to Bordeaux. My sister and her husband collected me from the airport and we drove to my mom’s new home in the country. Unfortunately, I experienced huge delays on the way there, so I only had a day with my sister before they left for Cape Town.
- I stayed at my mom’s home with the pups, only really venturing out to get supplies and take a couple of photos. Because my family was moving, there were thousands (or so it seemed) boxes to unpack, I had plenty of work to do, and the pool was very inviting, especially as for the majority of the time, it was 30 degrees plus.
- My mom doesn’t have any close neighbours, so I wasted many summer dresses without an audience, unless you count the newfies, of course, which I do. I do.
- When my mom arrived, we hung out, did some shopping, visited IKEA and le chateau, and rearranged all the big pieces of furniture!
- On the way back, I took a train from Bergerac to Bordeaux, which was actually lovely. Next time, I think I’ll take the train to Paris too.