LULA IN CEDERBERG
180km from cape town, za.
32.5891°s, 19.0118°e
The vast Cederberg Wilderness is one of the last untouched paradises in the world. Well known for it’s spectacular rock formations, sculpted by wind & water over millions of years; San & Khoikhoi Rock Art (dating back 28,000 years or so), arid summer landscapes of craggy peaks, mazes of boulders, grassy plains, crystal clear mountain streams, incredible fynbos & pristine valleys. Every turn offers something different, unique & truly magnificent.
“If Salvador Dali and Dr.Seuss got together to make a bouldering area, it would look something like this,” said Cedar Wright, an American rock climbing author, about the world famous Rocklands in the Pakhuis Pass area.
Almost the entire Cederberg Wilderness consists of sedimentary rock, sandstone and shale. The reddish colour of the rock is a result of minerals like iron and manganese that formed part of the sediments. According to Barnard & Greeff (1993) the Cederberg was a prominent feature since before the breaking up of Gondwanaland 130 million years (Ma) ago.
The Cederberg mountains, part of the Cape Supergroup was formed some 700 million years ago. Around 330 million years ago, climate change set in and continental ice drifts resulted in a a drop in sea level, exposing the upper Wittenberg Group sediments.
LULA IN CEDERBERG
180km from cape town, za.
32.5891°s, 19.0118°e
The vast Cederberg Wilderness is one of the last untouched paradises in the world. Well known for it’s spectacular rock formations, sculpted by wind & water over millions of years; San & Khoikhoi Rock Art (dating back 28,000 years or so), arid summer landscapes of craggy peaks, mazes of boulders, grassy plains, crystal clear mountain streams, incredible fynbos & pristine valleys. Every turn offers something different, unique & truly magnificent.
“If Salvador Dali and Dr.Seuss got together to make a bouldering area, it would look something like this,” said Cedar Wright, an American rock climbing author, about the world famous Rocklands in the Pakhuis Pass area.
Almost the entire Cederberg Wilderness consists of sedimentary rock, sandstone and shale. The reddish colour of the rock is a result of minerals like iron and manganese that formed part of the sediments. According to Barnard & Greeff (1993) the Cederberg was a prominent feature since before the breaking up of Gondwanaland 130 million years (Ma) ago.
The Cederberg mountains, part of the Cape Supergroup was formed some 700 million years ago. Around 330 million years ago, climate change set in and continental ice drifts resulted in a a drop in sea level, exposing the upper Wittenberg Group sediments.
The moving glaciers played a big role in forming the high mountains and deep valley landscape of the Cederberg. The intercontinental movement & forces also caused the eastward-dipping of the strata, making it look like the mountains are sinking on one side.
The Cederberg caves & overhangs are littered with rock art showing herds of eland, elephants & leopards, amongst others, dating from 2000 years ago created by the original people of the Cederberg, the San or Bushmen people (hunter-gatherers) and Khoikhoi people (pastoralists). The San bushmen people had a nomadic lifestyle, hunting the extensive wild animals which roamed the area during that time. We’ve never been lucky enough to see one on our trips, but leopards still roam freely in this area. They are smaller than their northern cousins, but just as shy & wary of people.
The name ‘’Cederberg’’ comes from the Clanwilliam Cedar Tree (Widdringtonia cedarbergensis). This extremely rare and endemic tree of the region typically grows at an altitude of over 1 500 meters.
European settlement almost led to the complete destruction of the cedar trees with thousands being used for furniture, housing, even telegraph poles. The Cedar tree is now strictly protected with only isolated trees to be seen in hard-to-reach high locations.
The English name for this region was originally the Cedarberg and the Afrikaans name was Sederberg. About 15-20 years ago, it was decided to combine the two names into the new name Cederberg. That’s why you may see two spellings used: Cedarberg and Cederberg.
The moving glaciers played a big role in forming the high mountains and deep valley landscape of the Cederberg. The intercontinental movement & forces also caused the eastward-dipping of the strata, making it look like the mountains are sinking on one side.
The Cederberg caves & overhangs are littered with rock art showing herds of eland, elephants & leopards, amongst others, dating from 2000 years ago created by the original people of the Cederberg, the San or Bushmen people (hunter-gatherers) and Khoikhoi people (pastoralists). The San bushmen people had a nomadic lifestyle, hunting the extensive wild animals which roamed the area during that time. We’ve never been lucky enough to see one on our trips, but leopards still roam freely in this area. They are smaller than their northern cousins, but just as shy & wary of people.
The name ‘’Cederberg’’ comes from the Clanwilliam Cedar Tree (Widdringtonia cedarbergensis). This extremely rare and endemic tree of the region typically grows at an altitude of over 1 500 meters.
European settlement almost led to the complete destruction of the cedar trees with thousands being used for furniture, housing, even telegraph poles. The Cedar tree is now strictly protected with only isolated trees to be seen in hard-to-reach high locations.
The English name for this region was originally the Cedarberg and the Afrikaans name was Sederberg. About 15-20 years ago, it was decided to combine the two names into the new name Cederberg. That’s why you may see two spellings used: Cedarberg and Cederberg.
what we learned
-
We’ve visited the Cederberg many times. In fact, it’s safe to say that’s where we fell in love with Africa. In summer, the days are hot & dry & in winter, icy cold in the evenings. Last year we came up to see the snow on the mountains.
-
There are tarred roads into the region, but we’ve always opted for the dirt. You should know that the ruts are no joke after rains.
- Although most of your time there will be spent isolated (what you hope when you’re in a desert), every now & then a friendly local will drive passed & say hello. There is no cell reception, but at least if you get stuck you feel safe.
- Leopards are rarely spotted. Although the landscape changes, there isn’t anywhere where their camoflaugue would not work.
- Far enough away from the light pollution of the bigger cities & towns, a new moon sky yields incredible stars! We’ve never planned to see the milky way so clearly when visiting the area, but it’s absolutely worth considering your timing when traveling.
- For day trips, pack lots of water & a picnic or stop in at Cederberg Private Cellar for wine-tasting (“Wines with Altitude”) & Cederberg Brewery’s ice-cold craft beers.
- We love to stay at Sanddrif Holiday Resort (hello clear mountain stream) or at Cederberg Oasis, for camping & accommodation on a budget.
our trip
- We snuck out of the city for a weekend treat, an evening in the astonishing Cederberg Wilderness.
- This trip, we stayed in a static (because I doubt it was quite roadworthy) caravan at The Cederberg Oasis, a campsite, which caters mostly, it seems to bikers. It’s a very down to earth sort of place, with rustic chalets, 2 man teepee tents & a restaurant with chicken strips & burgers. Every other time we’ve visited during the week, we’ve had Cederberg Oasis almost entirely to ourselves, but this time, the camp was bustling, braais on the go & laughter carrying through the night.
- The stars were incredible! It was a surreal feeling to be standing in the middle of nowhere, in the dark, with puny human eyesight, knowing that leopards (albeit smaller ones) are roaming around us, our focus on the camera’s settings.
- We took Lula to drive along a cliff-faced 4×4 trail to Wupperthal, which was astonishing! It had rained, so almost all of the untarred roads were rutted & bumpy, but the views were worth it!
- Stopping in at The Stadsaal rock art, we stood where 2000 years ago, artists painted their world on the iron-rich rocks.
- We were hoping to explore Kagga Kamma, but we arrived at the gate a smidgeon too early. Thankfully outside was absolutely stunning too!
what we learned
-
We’ve visited the Cederberg many times. In fact, it’s safe to say that’s where we fell in love with Africa. In summer, the days are hot & dry & in winter, icy cold in the evenings. Last year we came up to see the snow on the mountains.
-
There are tarred roads into the region, but we’ve always opted for the dirt. You should know that the ruts are no joke after rains.
- Although most of your time there will be spent isolated (what you hope when you’re in a desert), every now & then a friendly local will drive passed & say hello. There is no cell reception, but at least if you get stuck you feel safe.
- Leopards are rarely spotted. Although the landscape changes, there isn’t anywhere where their camoflaugue would not work.
- Far enough away from the light pollution of the bigger cities & towns, a new moon sky yields incredible stars! We’ve never planned to see the milky way so clearly when visiting the area, but it’s absolutely worth considering your timing when traveling.
- For day trips, pack lots of water & a picnic or stop in at Cederberg Private Cellar for wine-tasting (“Wines with Altitude”) & Cederberg Brewery’s ice-cold craft beers.
- We love to stay at Sanddrif Holiday Resort (hello clear mountain stream) or at Cederberg Oasis, for camping & accommodation on a budget.
our trip
- We snuck out of the city for a weekend treat, an evening in the astonishing Cederberg Wilderness.
- This trip, we stayed in a static (because I doubt it was quite roadworthy) caravan at The Cederberg Oasis, a campsite, which caters mostly, it seems to bikers. It’s a very down to earth sort of place, with rustic chalets, 2 man teepee tents & a restaurant with chicken strips & burgers. Every other time we’ve visited during the week, we’ve had Cederberg Oasis almost entirely to ourselves, but this time, the camp was bustling, braais on the go & laughter carrying through the night.
- The stars were incredible! It was a surreal feeling to be standing in the middle of nowhere, in the dark, with puny human eyesight, knowing that leopards (albeit smaller ones) are roaming around us, our focus on the camera’s settings.
- We took Lula to drive along a cliff-faced 4×4 trail to Wupperthal, which was astonishing! It had rained, so almost all of the untarred roads were rutted & bumpy, but the views were worth it!
- Stopping in at The Stadsaal rock art, we stood where 2000 years ago, artists painted their world on the iron-rich rocks.
- We were hoping to explore Kagga Kamma, but we arrived at the gate a smidgeon too early. Thankfully outside was absolutely stunning too!
